Descripción del proyecto
THE AIM OF THIS PROJECT IS TO STUDY NUMERICAL AND THEORETICALLY THE PROPAGATION OF NON LINEAR WAVES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATERS AND THE IMPLICATIONS FOR THE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT THROUGH THE COUPLING WITH THE BOTTOM BOUNDARY LAYER, MORE SPECIFICALLY, THE GOAL OF THIS PROJECT IS TO EXPLORE ALTERNATIVE FORMS OF THE LOWER ORDER WEAKLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE EQUATIONS WITH THE LINEAR PERFORMANCE IMPROVED TO VERY DEEP WATER, AND WITH THE CONSTRAINT THAT THE HIGHEST ORDER OF DERIVATIVES BE KEPT AT THREE, THIS WILL BE ACHIEVED BY MANIPULATING AND REPLACING THE HIGHER ORDER TERMS WITH A COMBINATION OF LOWER ORDER TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL DERIVATIVES, THESE WEIGHTING PARAMETERS WILL BE DETERMINED BY CONSTRAINING BOTH THE WAVE CELERITY AND AMPLITUDE SHOALING TO THOSE OF AIRY WAVE THEORY TO OBTAIN A NEW SET OF EQUATIONS SUPPOSED TO BE VALID FROM VERY DEEP WATER TO WEAKLY NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER, THE NEW SET OF EQUATIONS WILL BE MODIFIED TO INCLUDE THE SHOALING INDUCED BY THE BOTTOM THROUGH THE INCLUSION OF THE BOUNDARY LAYER EFFECTS, THE NEW SET OF EQUATIONS FOR WATER WAVE PROPAGATION WILL BE TESTED WITH AVAILABLE ¿STATE OF THE ART¿ EXPERIMENTAL DATA AFTER THE DEVEOLOPMENT OF A 2D NUMERICAL MODEL FOR RESOLVING THESE MODIFIED SET OF BOUSSINESQ-TYPE OF EQUATIONS TAKING CARE OF THE EFFICIENCE OF THE NUMERICAL CODE, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE THE NON LINEAR INTERACTIONS BETWEEN WAVES AND CURRENTS THE EFFECT OF A MEAN CURRENT ON THE WAVE PROPAGATION WILL BE INVESTIGATED WITH THE INCLUSION OF THE ROTATIONAL COMPONENT OF THE MEAN CURRENT IN THE GOVERNING EQUATIONS AND RESULTS WILL BE COMPARED WITH A NEW EXPERIMENTAL SET-UP DESIGNED FOR THIS PURPOSE, THE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT WILL BE STUDIED USING THE NEW MODEL BY COUPLING THE SEDIMENT CONSERVATION EQUATIONS WITH THE MODEL DEVELOPED, WE WILL FOCUS THIS LAST TASK SPECIFICALLY TO THE PROBLEM OF SAND BAR MOVEMENT UNDER WAVES AND WAVES AND CURRENTS, USING A NEW EXPERIMENTAL SET-UP FOR THE MEASUREMENT OF STRESSES UNDER WAVES AND CURRENTS WE WILL TEST THE ACCURACY OF THE BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS PROVIDED BY THE NUMERICAL MODEL DEVELOPED,